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Looking to buy a trailer and need feedback.

DavidKFla

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I'm not sure how they would work without an E-track
If they need 2 anchoring points then you need E-Track.
 


Speedy!

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No sleeves on the straps, we usually put towels through the wheel spokes and run the straps over them, which adds to the PITA factor. I want easy.

I'll have to look in to the ETrack stuff. Greg's trailer is just a steel diamond type floor. We installed some 2x12 where the tires are so we can open the doors on the car without hitting the trailer's fenders. I'm guessing we can bolt some ETrack pieces through the wood and put some support plates underneath the trailer.
 


DavidKFla

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No sleeves on the straps, we usually put towels through the wheel spokes and run the straps over them, which adds to the PITA factor. I want easy.

I'll have to look in to the ETrack stuff. Greg's trailer is just a steel diamond type floor. We installed some 2x12 where the tires are so we can open the doors on the car without hitting the trailer's fenders. I'm guessing we can bolt some ETrack pieces through the wood and put some support plates underneath the trailer.
See the green sleeves? You just slide them into position.
Screenshot_20221219_134517_Chrome.jpg
 


Jimmy N.

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I'm not sure how they would work without an E-track
E-track is the easiest, but if you always trailer the same car, and stop at the same spot, then three stationary anchors per wheel will work just fine.

I like E-track since it offers flexibility (for different vehicles) and maybe more importantly, because it can be fastened well to the trailer. And with the tires sitting on top of it, that also helps.

On this trailer there are crossmembers every 12 inches, and the extruded floor panels are fairly stout, too. That allowed me to use two bolts per foot, then rivets in the holes between them. No need for backing plates in this case. DSCN2672.JPG

On this little open trailer I could put bolts every six inches, so it was well secured, but the L-track isn't as strong as E-track. It was okay for the small and light cars I used that trailer for. IMG_4386.JPG
 


Jimmy N.

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I'll have to look in to the ETrack stuff. Greg's trailer is just a steel diamond type floor. We installed some 2x12 where the tires are so we can open the doors on the car without hitting the trailer's fenders. I'm guessing we can bolt some ETrack pieces through the wood and put some support plates underneath the trailer.
Unfortunately, trailer decking (be it wood or steel) is usually very poorly secured. Enough to keep it in place, but generally not much more. You probably need to tie into the cross members.
 


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See the green sleeves? You just slide them into position.
Those sleeves are really to protect the straps. Macs and others sell fuzzy ones (wool like material) that is meant to be kind to the wheels. Which they seem to be. I have yet to see any imperfections afterwards on any wheels.

Those sleeves go on with hook and loop, so easy to put on any kind of straps.
 


SilverBillet

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Im looking at these as well. The fronts would be attached to what they call a bridle, https://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/collections/all/products/bridle-121936, rears would also use this. What in worried about is if it will push up on the front splitter or damage bumper. In the rear I have the cradle lockouts so adding another shim in there is ot something I want to do. I have seen people use the hole on the spring link.
If the elevation of the cable going into the winch is higher than the bottom of your splitter, you @fumanchu182 probably need a tow hook in the grill area or it will damage the splitter
 


DavidKFla

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Those sleeves are really to protect the straps. Macs and others sell fuzzy ones (wool like material) that is meant to be kind to the wheels. Which they seem to be. I have yet to see any imperfections afterwards on any wheels.

Those sleeves go on with hook and loop, so easy to put on any kind of straps.
They seem to do a good job on my wheels. Never any marks or scratches, so far anyway.
 


SilverBillet

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See the green sleeves? You just slide them into position.
View attachment 90380
Those are still somewhat hard. You can buy fleece covered sleeves that are soft but they can still mark up the wheels when you tighten them down and definitely not good if the car has a little rocking motion while towing
 


DavidKFla

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Those are still somewhat hard. You can buy fleece covered sleeves that are soft but they can still mark up the wheels when you tighten them down and definitely not good if the car has a little rocking motion while towing
So far so good. Even on I95 through South Carolina and Virginia.
 


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I've been using through wheel straps on my hellcats and viper for years. none have made any marks on my wheels.
 


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4906A54D-19FA-4EA9-8E4C-18A363D69E8B.jpeg
many 400,000 mile tow vehicle. Be Texas bound in 3 weeks

2500 bucks I paid for it back in late 2017 in Dallas would definitely do
Again
 


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fumanchu182

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Thread Starter #173
Wtf… find me one?


View attachment 90383
many 400,000 mile tow vehicle. Be Texas bound in 3 weeks

2500 bucks I paid for it back in late 2017 in Dallas would definitely do
Again
 


Hatermkr

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TraxMoe

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I think there's a winch plate located there?
The 1/2" buildup is to clear the cabinet lip. I straddled a support beam under the trailer. So, it's not just bolted to the deck.
 


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TraxMoe

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Those are still somewhat hard. You can buy fleece covered sleeves that are soft but they can still mark up the wheels when you tighten them down and definitely not good if the car has a little rocking motion while towing
Tire nets are the only way to go. But that's my opinion , the straps are rated at a working limit of 2,500 lbs, I've traveled many miles and the car doesn't move around one bit. The E-trak is anchored through the cross members and also the intermediate anchor points have 6" X 13" X 1/4" plates on the back side of the flooring , if you notice the red headed bolts, they are the ones through the cross members

If you buy the clevises DO NOT BUY ONES MADE IN INDIA OR CHINA. They are known break below the load rating. only buy USA clevises

All bolts used were grade 8 including the 1/2" bolt for the ratchet,
 


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DavidKFla

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Tire nets are the only way to go. But that's my opinion , the straps are rated at a working limit of 2,500 lbs, I've traveled many miles and the car doesn't move around one bit. The E-trak is anchored through the cross members and also the intermediate anchor points have 6" X 13" X 1/4" plates on the back side of the flooring , if you notice the red headed bolts, they are the ones through the cross members

If you buy the clevises DO NOT BUY ONES MADE IN INDIA OR CHINA. They are known break below the load rating. only buy USA clevises

All bolts used were grade 8 including the 1/2" bolt for the ratchet,
You carry a lot of tires.
 


Jimmy N.

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Tire nets are the only way to go.
Thank you for illustrating what I didn't explain very well.
 


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fumanchu182

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Thread Starter #179
Mmm beefy
F046017A-34AB-45B4-BFAF-BE53F3205B5B.jpeg 598E803C-4E74-49B6-95F3-CBE9EB8746A5.jpeg 1F766654-1022-49A2-9269-D67A0A2D9169.jpeg FB67C060-C513-46D8-9C59-A19AD1728FBB.jpeg
 


Jimmy N.

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Nice! You sure wouldn't find that at Tractor Supply.
(Sorry, BULL)
 




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