Search results

I think you could. If you're only setting it up for the 'Cat, then you could install two D-rings per wheel in the appropriate spots. Either in front of and behind the tire, or the same but just outside the sidewall, depending on the type of wheel net. I ran into the...

A Challenger and a Harley in a 20-footer should remove any doubts about a Challenger having enough room by itself, I think.

I'm a firm believer in using wheel nets, and very anti tying to sprung parts. That basically means E-track under the tires. Having tied down all kinds of vehicles over the years, a Challenger presents different challenges than what I'm used to, with the low clearance in the front, especially.

Just don't make it too slippery. Wood is pretty good at providing traction (when dry). What are you doing for tie downs?

Yeah, that's the problem with having a (mostly) gravel driveway. I could load and unload out on the road, but it would be a bit of a production.

I was wondering about door clearance...until I saw the last photo. Elegant solution.

That's where I have a problem. Reasonably flat, yes, larger than #2, definitely. I could spread fine gravel in a "loading spot", but it'd get probably get plowed away during the winter. On a positive note, I ordered a pair of smaller Race Ramps last year, but they sent the wrong kind so I've...

Well, in my case it's not smooth vs. brushed concrete. More like cobblestones, really.

Thanks, Rob. When I looked into getting a set a few months ago, it seemed like an "expanding foam" type base enclosed in "bedliner", and not necessarily a good setup for uneven surfaces. But there's only one way to find out, I suppose.

Has anyone used Race Ramps on gravel or dirt, in other words less than perfect surfaces? I'll need something to make the transition to my trailer's ramp door, but suspect that those ramps could crumble if not supported evenly.

Well, getting rid of the tire goop was really a welcome side benefit of swapping out the 5-spokes and "all terrains" to wheels I think go better with the car, and tires that work better.

Same here. Fixed that by replacing the tires and wheels. But I just realized that I can't answer the OP's question yet. I won't know until I have washed the car twice.

Oh, yes, there is. Just look at the poor tire in the photo in post number one. If tires were supposed to look like a woman with way too much make up, the manufacturers would've injected slime into the rubber compound during the production process. Instead, they use various chemicals that help...

Well, I must admit that I never took stopping distance into account when deciding on trailer size. Luckily I have a 30-foot trailer, too. And if that's not enough, I could put a mattress and/or a tire wall at the front of a 35-footer I have.

Aside from that I know it's not good for the tires, I can't imagine that the over spray does the brakes any favors. So my answer is no. Absolutely not, to be precise.

For everyday driving (which in my case is going fast, accelerating hard to get past traffic, and not lifting any more than necessary in the twisties) I really like the Firestone Firehawk Indy 500. They are probably far from the best, but the price is amazing.

Looks like you're doing something right. Except for picking the correct class. Good for you, and keep us posted.

Eric, you obviously made it back. What broke? Nothing, I hope, but was expecting an update.

For reference, here's the '18 on an 18-foot trailer.

A 20-footer is enough, if using wheel nets and idlers so the tie down ratchets only have to come past the car by a foot or so. Of course, that requires E or L track spaced correctly for the track width. And a side door is a near must, I think.