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There are only two ways for them to catch fire that I know of, well recalled reasons anyway. One's the transmission, the other the grid heater solenoid. The latter is easy enough to circumvent.

I think a '21 has the old (better) CP3 pump, but don't take my word for it.

I really can't recommend one over another, not really having used much of any of them. The Howes I use for anti-gel has a summer version, too, and Stanadyne is Cummins approved as I recall. Optilube placed very well in the tests I've seen, but those are old. Straying from the established...

Yeah, although I was thinking more along the lines of trucking, ships, trains, and such. The stuff that keeps the world moving. And I do feel sorry for those who use heating oil, diesel, etc. for heating. That's not an indirect hit.

Ah, sounds like you're going by the Lie-O-Meter, not calculating actual mileage. That makes it a bit tricky to know what's really going on, as it shows the mpg over the past 200 miles or so, and not necessarily accurately.

DavidKFla, you may want to dive into the rabbit hole of additives. I generally have to use anti-gel (which shouldn't be an issue for you), as with the limited driving I do, the 74 gallons of fuel often end up being summer blend in the winter and vice versa. Anyway, some additives do promise...

You obviously don't know how miserably low the payload on a Ram 2500 is, do you? And besides, I also use that same little trailer for some fairly porky cars.

It's been a couple of weeks and I don't even have a VIN yet. Or maybe I do, but don't know about it? Oh well, if it happens it happens. And if it does, I have oil, filters, and magnetic drain plugs for it. Even a set of Michelins.

My guess is that it's because the average person (voter) doesn't realize that overall the diesel prices are by far more important than the price of gas. Need to appease the sheep? Lower the gas prices. Done.

No, the 2500 in the first photo was my girlfriend's. She has since got a 3500 longbed. And the ex military pickup is technically a 1-1/4-ton. A civilian version would be a 1-ton...not sure what if anything differs. I haven't had a 3/4 since getting the 3500 cab and chassis in '17.

Oh, you mean more like this?

Something like this then?

Not sure why you're saying that. I've probably loaded and unloaded vehicles on and in trailers some 500 times, at least. Maybe closer to double that. So far they've been driven both ways (except for when loading non-runners with pallet forks or a crane). Proof positive that I'm as stupid as...

Do you have actual numbers for the Challenger? I think I measured mine to about 10 degrees, but it'd be nice to know what it really is.

Is the approach angle about the same though?

I also like it, but your trailer is quite a bit lower than mine, so the door needs to be spaced up much more. As do the ramps. And don't forget that I don't have four paying passengers to kick out, making the car about an inch taller.

Thanks, David. I've seen those. But in my case I'd have space the door up about eight inches, which they do make parts for. Then the ramps would need spacers, like yours has, except taller. Not hard to do, but that would mean four separate contact points (two per side) which isn't ideal on...

One thing I've learned (the hard way) is to not buy any kind of trailer with less than 5,200 lb. axles. While it has quite a few miles on it, a light little tandem axle car hauler of mine is on its third set of 3,500 lb. axles. Longevity because of larger bearings, and better brakes. Well worth...

Yeah, yours are what got me thinking about this again. Do you know what brand they are? At this point a pair of 8x8x18 blocks of wood are looking appealing. Set the door down on them, then regular aluminum ramps (which I have) on the portion of wood that sticks out past the door. Four more...

I've been looking around a bit for a basic 24-foot enclosed trailer, but a gooseneck. Nothing fancy, and without a side door, the ones I'd consider are $30K plus. There's an outfit in Georgia (?) that has them for $20K and change, but... Since the material, if equal, should cost about the same...