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Yeah, the 68RFE isn't the best transmission, but they can be made to work and live. Although maybe not by a dealer.

Why not a WD hitch instead, which would help much more than any air spring ever could.

Ah, those are easy fixes. A simple locking dipstick from a parts store would've taken care of the transmission potentially puking, and the grid heater relay could simply be disconnected. I have my grid heater disconnected and the 6.7 still starts just fine. At least down to -10.

That's interesting. Every one of the ones built in Saltillo (2500s and 3500s) we have or have had have been flawless. The three 1500s are a different story, with the '14 being the worst (missing interior parts, very misaligned door, etc.). all concentrated around the right rear of the cab...

Batteries...in cars meant to be powered by gasoline?

Making things like that is fun...but lifting steel ramps is not. At least not with my back. The ramps shouldn't need to be any longer than the trailer deck is wide, so storing them under the car seems like extra work to me. With a normal (non-deckover) trailer the break-over angle shouldn't be...

Park in an industrial area for a couple of days? Or, just learn to live with a far more practical color.

No, if you get the correct length there's no need for Race Ramps. I have a set for the toy hauler but have yet to use them. They don't like gravel or uneven surfaces. Look at what Best Aluminum Ramps has available. Their prices are good, and they made a custom set for a trailer of mine at a...

Nope, there's not. With only three colors to pick from, and the Plus package being $6K worth of stuff, I didn't think it needed any more options.

I wouldn't even consider a tilt deck. Seems like a lot of extra weight for very little convenience. An 18-20' flatbed with a 2' dovetail would be my choice. Then get good aluminum ramps (I know where to buy them) in the correct length.

Per BULL's not so subtle request I dragged my aching body to the garage and took a photo.

I've learned (the hard way) to stay away from 3,500-lb. axles, but have had good luck with 5,200-lb. axles, the 6-lug version DavidKFla mentioned above. The increase in cost is very small, and the payback is larger bearings, larger brakes, and what seems to be better axles in general. Yes...

It's generally not an issue with the trailer not tracking well (unless the tongue weight is too low), but the tow vehicle weaving in front of it due to the extra weight on the rear and the lesser than normal weight on the front. Less weight up front means reduced braking and steering...

Indeed, much like that a regular 1500 is better suited than a TRX is, even though the TRX is heavier and has stouter parts. Still, I'd much prefer towing with a Power Wagon than an equally, or higher, rated 1500. It's painfully easy to add anti sway bars and/or make other simple changes to the...

If you have to tow with a 1/2-ton, a good WD hitch is almost necessary, I think. Adding air springs doesn't do a thing for moving weight to the front axle, and can only help keep the tow vehicle level. That's not my opinion but basic physics. Having towed with most everything between 1/2-tons...

Thanks, I am definitely bouncing back. And it's about time...I was behind on lots of things before this started.

Thanks, DGatzby, I know that you're trying to help, and appreciate it. After all, it's not like you're suggesting that everything would be better if trading in the Challengers on taxis. I'll read the link later, but for now, believe it or not, my pee passes the color test, and it's quite rare...

How do you figure? I wouldn't survive FL without A/C, but some logs in the fireplace is all it takes here, for a few months of the year.

Easy for you to say. I'm not equipped to function in such a humid environment (inside and out) as you are.