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The price was right so I snagged it but...

16GoManGoHC2

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#61
Got the blower disassembled. I think I found what happened to it. These Litens pulleys are supposed to be decoulper, so when you lock the shaft it shouldn't spin clockwise, but SHOULD spin counter clock wise. That's how the decoupler works AFAIK. This one was locked up. Wouldn't back spin. I go to remove the pulley, flip the snout over and the 15mm shaft bolt head literally falls off. It had snapped and this was before I even touched it. My "guess" is that the decoupler or something went bad and somehow caused that bolt to break?

Getting that pulley off was MUCH harder than on my Hellcat. I have a big boy impact, Nitrocat 1150 which as 1295ft/lbs breakaway torque. It wouldn't budge it! I put a heat gun on the front of the pulley for 30 seconds or so and brought it up to 150° F and hit it again and it broke free. Crazy it was that tight. No loctite on threads. That had to be over torqued?

I'll get everything cleaned up tomorrow and off to SDG Motorsports for the rebuild. While it's gone I'll take the time to clean the intercooler bricks, lid, etc. They have a lot of oil residue on them. Not sure if something else was going on, or just no catch can or what.

@16GoManGoHC2 I wanna clean up the TMAP sensors. I have some CRC QD electrical cleaner, figure it's G2G on these TMAPs? https://amzn.to/3QVTnxh
Sounds like it may have been overdriven from a bigger lower pulley?

I use Mass Airflow cleaner on all sensors.

The bricks I clean with Carburetor and Choke cleaner, shit cuts EVERYTHING! Blow them out with compressed air while still full of the stuff. Don’t get it on anything rubber like the end gaskets, orings, etc. or painted etc or in your eyes lol
 


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#62
The true operation of these Litens has been debated several times, with me never really knowing the truth.

Some say that they are supposed to fully, freely spin backwards. I've heard others say, No, they only spin backwards a small amount (without ever really saying how much is "small"...)

Sure would be nice to know the real deal...
 


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Thread Starter #63
My 2.72 spun freely backward. Got video of that.
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#64
Give the pulley a quick flip spin with your hand but don’t let go of the pulley, ie stop the pulley, the rotors should keep spinning a little bit, if not the pulley is dragging and not good or on its way to failure.
 


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Thread Starter #65
Its disassembled now.
 


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Thread Starter #66
What about those little polymer dowels that are in the coupler between the snout and the blower base? I was thinking of putting new ones in. I'm not sure if the rebuild includes new ones or not, I should probably ask about that.
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#67
What about those little polymer dowels that are in the coupler between the snout and the blower base? I was thinking of putting new ones in. I'm not sure if the rebuild includes new ones or not, I should probably ask about that.
Depends on the fit onto the pins. Should be a tight fit on the pins. Jon Bond sells them for 10 something each, need 8, so around 100$. I doubt a 1000$ rebuild includes them but hopefully I’m wrong, if their not they’ll probably will tell you their not needed. $1000 is usually the labor cost for a rebuild and parts above and beyond that.
 


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Thread Starter #68
I don't think these would be considered "tight". I was able to easily remove them with needle nose. Most stayed with the snout, maybe two were still in the blower base. I can't believe they're $8 each though, geeze. Figured a whole pack would be like $30 on the high side.

I can see on the pulley the coating "polished" a bit on the belt ribs, so not sure how long it was driven with it locked up. Makes me wonder how these little dowel things survive with fixed aftermarket pulleys.
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#69
I don't think these would be considered "tight". I was able to easily remove them with needle nose. Most stayed with the snout, maybe two were still in the blower base. I can't believe they're $8 each though, geeze. Figured a whole pack would be like $30 on the high side.

I can see on the pulley the coating "polished" a bit on the belt ribs, so not sure how long it was driven with it locked up. Makes me wonder how these little dowel things survive with fixed aftermarket pulleys.
Agree, if you saw how rotor timing is held in place you’d wonder how that survives too. Think of the damper pulley but only as big around as an index finger but spinning 33,000 rpm and only half on by a 10mm LH thread grade 10.9 flange head bolt. No KW, no pins, no splines, just clamp load from the bolt just like the harmonic damper on the crank shaft. But at least the harmonic balancer is a tight press fit onto the crank, that gear is a slip fit onto the rotor shaft
 


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Agree, if you saw how rotor timing is held in place you’d wonder how that survives too. Think of the damper pulley but only as big around as an index finger but spinning 33,000 rpm and only half on by a 10mm LH thread grade 10.9 flange head bolt. No KW, no pins, no splines, just clamp load from the bolt just like the harmonic damper on the crank shaft. But at least the harmonic balancer is a tight press fit onto the crank, that gear is a slip fit onto the rotor shaft


Any evidence of a Loc-tite type product used during original assembly?
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#71
Any evidence of a Loc-tite type product used during original assembly?
Nope, it has a little ring that squeezes between 2 faces, not even a taper lock kind of lock up, just face to face clamp load. I put 680 lock tite in there and be quick about getting timing right and lock it down with an impact. Never had one move after that. I’ll post a picture in a bit of it, Have to find one on my phone. I posted pictures of the area before it’s probably in that thread that speedy posted a link to earlier in this thread
 


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#72
This little ring sandwiched between bolt and gearbis all that hold the faster gear on the heavier faster spinning rotor in place. And has to keep this .006” cold gap, which probably closes to .002-.003 when the rotors are hot, from touching. They get out of time just a hair and they start rubbing the coating off first, then comes aluminum if they get further out of time and then they start getting hot quick and then lock up against one another and blow the case apart. The weaker 2015-2017 cases with out the cylinder separating ports fail first as they are very thinly casted.
9549EE00-7EBD-4254-AC20-736A3B68867F.jpeg 5300B295-3F8C-4232-A38F-24F12DF0B39B.jpeg 4262B8FE-19EA-44EF-B950-68878A9BEEB4.jpeg 65AE31D5-58AD-4DB5-B0FF-34F6A35B2847.jpeg BACE01A6-2644-4AE1-93DC-62BADC36338D.jpeg 6A38B8FB-8B70-4710-ADCC-A280DF405731.jpeg
 


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Thread Starter #73
I plan to use the RE fuel rail since it has that nifty Schrader port on it. Will come in handy if I need to swap fuels for some reason.

What I believe is the fuel pressure sensor looks a hair different. Still a 3 prong so it'll plug in to my 2016 harness on the car, but anyone done this and know it's just plug and play? 2019 RE on the left, 2016 Hellcat on the right. I tried to look up the numbers on a little decal on the sensor but even Google had no ideas.
20220628_115525.jpg
 


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#74
Warning, .02 ahead.


Do not use petroleum jelly on o-rings!



(Unless they have failed and you want to intentionally swell them as a temporary fix.)


.02

Agree sometimes material composition is a factor

typical is neoprene, n buna- (nbuna), viton. One certain oring I have used in chemical pd style injection pumps is KALREZ for its properties of retaining shape with many different chemicals. In short it won’t swell during use of many types of liquid compounds.
 


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#75
This little ring sandwiched between bolt and gearbis all that hold the faster gear on the heavier faster spinning rotor in place. And has to keep this .006” cold gap, which probably closes to .002-.003 when the rotors are hot, from touching. They get out of time just a hair and they start rubbing the coating off first, then comes aluminum if they get further out of time and then they start getting hot quick and then lock up against one another and blow the case apart. The weaker 2015-2017 cases with out the cylinder separating ports fail first as they are very thinly casted.
View attachment 74566 View attachment 74567 View attachment 74568 View attachment 74569 View attachment 74570 View attachment 74571
The actual clamp load is the flat washer on top of the "Spacer" bushing that holds the spacing, I agree that it is a tremendous load for such a small bolt to hold with that kind of mass and inertia...I personally would use a 12.9 for the added insurance.
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#76
The actual clamp load is the flat washer on top of the "Spacer" bushing that holds the spacing, I agree that it is a tremendous load for such a small bolt to hold with that kind of mass and inertia...I personally would use a 12.9 for the added insurance.
That’s precisely what I do, I upgrade all bolts to 12.9’s but finding a grade 12.9 Flange Head LH thread bolt center drilled and cross drilled is impossible. This is a pretty special bolt. The blower gear case breaths to atmosphere through this bolts center.
 


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#77
See the funnel shape leading to the hole in the bolts center? Centrifugal force at 25,000+ rpm separates any oil in the maelstrom of swirling oil from getting out the hole but air pressure differences can. It leads to the hole in the shaft pointed out by the red arrow which leads to a chamber between 2 seals that leads to the 2 vent ports on the underside of the blower. (Not the shinny ball, the porous looking things to the left of the shinny ball). These are the things that you don’t want to cover up when you put a blower blanket on the bottom, cut little slits in the blanket so these 2 ports can breath
13866414-A74D-4B11-BEB0-705DFF0367F5.png BE2F0A55-AC8D-47FB-AF28-DDA49929C24F.jpeg AED817AB-0BF2-428A-9820-222E1B4B9CB8.jpeg
 


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Thread Starter #78
Crazy it's that complex LOL. Wonder how many people have covered those up with the heat shield blankets.

Speaking of which, I might as well order the FI spacer/blanket kit. Best place still CSP?
 


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#79
Crazy it's that complex LOL. Wonder how many people have covered those up with the heat shield blankets.

Speaking of which, I might as well order the FI spacer/blanket kit. Best place still CSP?
We talked about that a couple of years ago in the spacer thread

I would search around and find the best price. I paid $400 2 years ago but don't remember who I bought them from
 


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#80
See the funnel shape leading to the hole in the bolts center? Centrifugal force at 25,000+ rpm separates any oil in the maelstrom of swirling oil from getting out the hole but air pressure differences can. It leads to the hole in the shaft pointed out by the red arrow which leads to a chamber between 2 seals that leads to the 2 vent ports on the underside of the blower. (Not the shinny ball, the porous looking things to the left of the shinny ball). These are the things that you don’t want to cover up when you put a blower blanket on the bottom, cut little slits in the blanket so these 2 ports can breath
View attachment 74723 View attachment 74724 View attachment 74725
With the second picture being so close, I'm having a hard time seeing exactly where this hole is relative to a thermo blanket install. I ask because both my cars have the spacers and the thermo blanket installed.
 


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