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Storing car on Quickjacks over the winter.

Idoru99

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#21
So if a spring is extended versus compressed, for a few weeks or months, some believe they deform? Would this potential deformation be better extended? Rather than compressing it forever? I would rather my springs are in the extended position rather than compressing it myself.

If a bushing is in a #1 position versus a #2 position, it matters? The shock absorber is not working regardless if it is compressed or extended for storage.
I read the deformation of the unibody, not the springs. Did I misread it?
 


Jack_Toepfer

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#22
Re: storing gas

is it ok to store E85 (E75 as tested) over the winter in plastic race jugs? or should I give it to a flexfuel driver and get new in the spring?
You can store it so long as there is no moisture and as little air in the jug as possible. If it isn’t a lot, and you like your driver, unload it and buy fresh next year.
 


Jimmy N.

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#23
Re: storing gas

is it ok to store E85 (E75 as tested) over the winter in plastic race jugs? or should I give it to a flexfuel driver and get new in the spring?
I've used StaBil for years, and it works. Well, up to two years anyway under less than ideal circumstances.

Recently switched over to Star-Tron, which seems to do a better job.
 


TraxMoe

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#24
I would think the strain on the strut pistons would be more concerning. more than what would be expected before installation. The weight of the tires and suspension parts would add to the strain. I would be less concerned with the load on the bushing or ball joints, although that would be something that should be considered also .

Flat spots on the tires would be the least of the worries, after a few miles of rolling that should clear up. Over inflating the tires would negate the extent of the flat spots.

Short term storage would be okay but IMO I wouldn't leave the suspension hang for long periods of time.
 


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Jimmy N.

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#25
There's a reason 4-post lifts exist.
 


Hunter

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#26
There's a reason 4-post lifts exist.
I might as well pray for Unobtainium.
Maybe when I win the lottery.
:cool:
 


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#27
Well in a couple few months when I let it down, I’ll evaluate if the frame is bent and if the other stuff still gets me around a track after settling down. I’ll report back. For now it is warm, dry, freshly oiled, two feet off the concrete, and most important secure. Have not seen it for a couple of weeks and will need to start the clay-polish-wax rounds soon!
 


Jimmy N.

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#28
You put a frame under yours? If so it should resist bending quite well.
 


2ndAmend

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#29
Just an idea:

Maybe lift partially, put wood blocks under the lift portion then let it down so the weight is on he blocks and hot the hydraulics.
 


Jimmy N.

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#30
Maybe lift partially, put wood blocks under the lift portion then let it down so the weight is on he blocks and hot the hydraulics.
Okay, but why lift it in the first place?
 


2ndAmend

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#31
Okay, but why lift it in the first place?
Maybe I misunderstood but I thought the objective was taking some weight off the tires and suspension without letting the wheels hang in the air. Personally I just park on foam insulation.
 


Jimmy N.

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#32
If it concerned me, I'd get some of those Race Ramp style thingies to put under the tires. But it doesn't.
 


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#33
All this reminds me of a guy named Mort who had a Boss 429 Mustang way back in the day. He would drive it up on pillows each night when putting it in the garage.
 


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#34
If it concerned me, I'd get some of those Race Ramp style thingies to put under the tires. But it doesn't.
Where you are it is not a problem. Where I am, the first mile or two can be a very bumpy road in cold weather, even with AS's. The foam really helps.

Funny, Walter White did his business in your back yard, but he hid out in mine! :)
 


Jimmy N.

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#35
Where you are it is not a problem. Where I am, the first mile or two can be a very bumpy road in cold weather, even with AS's. The foam really helps.
Well, I rarely drive mine if it's 30 degrees or less. Now, if it gets down to -10 or -20 I might. Then they don't even try to use salt on the roads, and rightfully so.

Either way, the tires will start out at about 60 degrees (about as cold as it gets in the garage), and I always take it very easy for the first few miles to let the oil come up to temp anyway. By then the tires are round again, if they weren't to start with.
 


1971demon

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#36
I read the deformation of the unibody, not the springs. Did I misread it?
It would seem that Gatt's logic would apply to the unibody as well...or so it would seem...
 


DGatzby

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#37
I like it off the floor. Once in a while the Jeep will sneak some hidden ice chunks in. There should really be a drain where my left front tire is parked. So sometimes water will pond. Sometimes worse, it runs!

The only item, maybe, is the shock piston could be straining. I don’t know how they are restrained at full out.
 


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#38
It's my standard practice to have my car off the ground almost all winter. I do remove the wheels/tires though and stack them on a roller out of the way. Primarily, I do this so I can leisurely inspect everything and most every winter install upgrades or replace parts. I've seen 0 issues with doing this.
I use 4 jack stands to keep the car off the ground. Haven't spent the money on a QuickJack yet. I always get close and then convince myself I should get something like a set of tires instead.
 


DGatzby

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#39
It's my standard practice to have my car off the ground almost all winter. I do remove the wheels/tires though and stack them on a roller out of the way. Primarily, I do this so I can leisurely inspect everything and most every winter install upgrades or replace parts. I've seen 0 issues with doing this.
I use 4 jack stands to keep the car off the ground. Haven't spent the money on a QuickJack yet. I always get close and then convince myself I should get something like a set of tires instead.
There is a good idea to help with any theory of damage from hanging the suspension. Remove the 60 lb weights from the four corners. Thanks @TrackDay.
 


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