Somewhat sending it cause curse words hurt their feels! Live updates on the carnage.

[RGPIII]

Agreed at that power level the billet housing is probably needed. but for the guys like Fumanchu and I, aren't at that level yet. Would I absolutely run a Billet rear, for sure./ but the price tag makes it a little unrealistic. I can explode 4, 3.09 rears for that price.

 

[Hatermkr]

Agreed at that power level the billet housing is probably needed. but for the guys like Fumanchu and I, aren't at that level yet. Would I absolutely run a Billet rear, for sure./ but the price tag makes it a little unrealistic. I can explode 4, 3.09 rears for that price.

If you guys buy the cases and send me a gear and carrier I will set them up for you.

 

[fumanchu182]

100% plan on doing this. Need to get the current pumpkin out the car. Axles be damned. Just waiting on HHP to get back to me. If they say no I’m just ordering DSS axles and taking GForce to small claims.

 

[Hatermkr]

100% plan on doing this. Need to get the current pumpkin out the car. Axles be damned. Just waiting on HHP to get back to me. If they say no I’m just ordering DSS axles and taking GForce to small claims.

mine broke

 

[Marc W]

I have to respectfully disagree. I bought GForce Outlaw Axles. These are supposed to be the billy badass of axles. I have 15 passes on them and then poof. At 2200 a pair these are not cheap. So what you're saying is that for my street car I should get a TH400 and full solid rear axle… to run 9.5 class.

Make it make sense?

. What I’m saying is concerning the differential. In my opinion, the stock diff case has proven to be a weak point. At the 1000+ hp level it can pretty much be expected to break at some point. Your options are the new billet replacement with stronger (Wavetrac) LSD or go to a DSS 9” conversion with the 35 spline stub option. Either of those will prevent what at this point is just a matter of time with the potential for extended driveline destruction. Axles are a separate issue. I ran DSS with 35 spline stubs with their 9” conversion and never had any issues running 1.2 sixty’s.

 

[Hatermkr]

. What I’m saying is concerning the differential. In my opinion, the stock diff case has proven to be a weak point. At the 1000+ hp level it can pretty much be expected to break at some point. Your options are the new billet replacement with stronger (Wavetrac) LSD or go to a DSS 9” conversion with the 35 spline stub option. Either of those will prevent what at this point is just a matter of time with the potential for extended driveline destruction. Axles are a separate issue. I ran DSS with 35 spline stubs with their 9” conversion and never had any issues running 1.2 sixty’s.

You know Z has a stock diff

 

[zhc]

You know Z has a stock diff

Some would say that I'm just getting real lucky with mine, factory 3.09 cutting 1.16 - 1.22 60'. I do swap them out every 9-12 months so maybe that has helped me avoid experiencing a case failure. I also use DSS axles and driveshaft.

 

[DGatzby]

From what I have seen they are a really strong axle but not as strong against wheel hop. @jgilj cuts low 1.3 60fts on them

Well I am not sure anything is good when that happens.

 

[ostmike]

I have to respectfully disagree. I bought GForce Outlaw Axles. These are supposed to be the billy badass of axles. I have 15 passes on them and then poof. At 2200 a pair these are not cheap. So what you're saying is that for my street car I should get a TH400 and full solid rear axle… to run 9.5 class.

Make it make sense?

What the heck are you doing at the launch to break axles at that power level? I ran the factory axles and factory diff for at least 3 years of racing every week at the 9.4-9.5 ET and 1.3x - 1.4x 60' without issues. I did break a factory axle once but replaced it with another factory axle which lasted until I decided to replace them because I wanted to spray it. At that point I took the path Marc W is suggesting and decided to prevent a failure by upgrading parts that could potentially break and installed the DSS axles.

You might want to consider softening your launch some in the tune.

 

[Boris]

Something to consider. Breaking stuff… breaks stuff. Some take the approach that they will upgrade when necessary. Meaning when it breaks. A perfect case in point…. The Magnum at our shop is still running a IRS. It has a Ford 8.8 in it that has held on. We were wondering how long it would last and plans to go to 4-link with the Strange 9” like mine were discussed. It was hanging in there running 8.3’s and on top of the world. The long, expensive trip to Houston was made to wring some more out of it. And…. it let go on the first hit with that track prep. They found a replacement ring and pinion at a local Ford dealer and spent the night getting it done. Next day they were back in business…. Until they weren’t 🫤. When the rear end let go… it hurt the trans. That was discovered when the $12k T400 let go in the burnout. The point being…. It might be smart to bite the bullet for the expensive parts up front. Sometimes saving money… doesn’t

Ive seen it happen a lot actually.
Rear end grenades and the trans or motor will zing leading to internal damage of one or both

If this is going to be a serious drag car, i'd install a solid axle in it and be done.
This
https://www.moserengineering.com/2009-Newer-Challenger-M9-Rear-Solid-Axle-Sub-Frame-Kit.item

or the DC Strange Drag Pak kit.

4000+lbs car making 1000+whp is serious business.

 

[fumanchu182]

What the heck are you doing at the launch to break axles at that power level? I ran the factory axles and factory diff for at least 3 years of racing every week at the 9.4-9.5 ET and 1.3x - 1.4x 60' without issues. I did break a factory axle once but replaced it with another factory axle which lasted until I decided to replace them because I wanted to spray it. At that point I took the path Marc W is suggesting and decided to prevent a failure by upgrading parts that could potentially break and installed the DSS axles.

You might want to consider softening your launch some in the tune.

I didn’t know a 1.4x needed to be dialed back. @Jon-MooredPerformanceLLC

 

[Jon-MooredPerformanceLLC]

View attachment 104283

I didn’t know a 1.4x needed to be dialed back. @Jon-MooredPerformanceLLC

Ya a 1.4 not spinning should be needing dialed back. And honestly with those axles no reason you shouldn’t be in the mid to low 1.3s. Also a second gear launch. You shouldn’t be launching that violent.

 

[RGPIII]

I'm willing to bet the axles were defective from the start. A 1.4 60 at this power level should never have twisted let alone broke an axle. Add in some wheel hop and you have a much different story. but the fact it still went on the pass is weird. every axle I've snapped, sheered, twisted or exploded left me sitting at the line.

 

[Hatermkr]

Broken parts happen than you fix them

 

[RGPIII]

View attachment 104284 Broken parts happen than you fix them

Sent that one a little too hard!!

 

[fumanchu182]

View attachment 104284 Broken parts happen than you fix them

Bluetooth piston mod?

 

[Linda's Hell Cat]

@fumanchu182
Maybe along the way - the Converter or something may have done something with the power going to the ground?

Have you changed your Converter?

 

[RGPIII]

Linda may be onto something here. I always forget you have a built trans.

 

[TNREDEYE]

View attachment 104284 Broken parts happen than you fix them

We call those "unscheduled disassembly's" here at the shop. The scheduled ones are always so, so much cheaper.

 

[fumanchu182]

@fumanchu182
Maybe along the way - the Converter or something may have done something with the power going to the ground?

Have you changed your Converter?

Linda may be onto something here. I always forget you have a built trans.

whats the theory behind this?