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Looking to buy a trailer and need feedback.

DavidKFla

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#21
BTW, my Ram is only rated at 8,100 because if the Power Wagon suspension (Very soft) but the same truck without the off-road springs is supposedly rated at over 10k...
Diesel is the solution.


Or electric...πŸ˜‚πŸ€£πŸ˜‚πŸ€£πŸ˜‚
 


DavidKFla

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#22
Almost none of the trailer side doors are low enough to open your car door. You will have to build up the floor to raise the car a few inches or get the aluminum trailer $$$ like Dave K has with the gull wing door and a removable fender. In any case, you need an open trailer. The 3.21 rear kills you. If you expect to tow on interstates at 70+ mph, you should still plan to get the adjustable load distribution hitch and maybe the additional anti-sway device.
My ATC is a great trailer. Tows like a dream. I'm actually pulling it right now heading home from Bradenton. I highly recommend 1 of these trailers or an Intec.
20221001_174901.jpg
 


DavidKFla

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#23
Don't forget to figure in about $5K in accessories that you're going to need for the trailer. I had to get ramps installed because the Charger is low, generator, spare tire setup, fuel can holder's, etc.
 


Jimmy N.

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#24
I don't like towing with a 1/2-ton at all, but if I must, this is about the upper limit. DSCN4642[1].JPG
 


DavidKFla

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This was a good setup with the 3.92 and the etorque. Not for the enclosed trailer.
20200713_184930.jpg
 


Jimmy N.

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So I see some nice aluminum ramps attached to trailer doors here. Any you could recommend?

While the 4" taller than stock trailer makes the door of the Cat clear the fender, the rear door has nowhere near the correct approach angle, and even the breakover angle is much too high. Need about 8" of extra height.

Recently bought Race Ramps, but that seems to have been a mistake. Not only do those not like sitting on gravel (which I knew), but when I asked them about putting a small piece of plywood on the step for the door, they said I'd be on my own if I did.

Tried to explain that spreading the load of the door's edge couldn't possibly be a bad thing. Then I asked if it was somehow better to put the door directly on the ramps, like in all their photos, to which they said that I would be on my own doing it that way, too. Needless to say, those ramps are still in their unopened box. DSCN2629.JPG
 


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My winter plans include hopefully picking up an enclosed trailer by spring. Of the enclosed trailers pictured in this thread, about how much would one expect to pay? I haven’t started seriously looking yet, but I am hoping to get something in the $12-15k range, even if it is 2-3 years old. I definitely don’t want to spend the $20-30k+ I know some of them cost.
 


vortecd

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#28
My winter plans include hopefully picking up an enclosed trailer by spring. Of the enclosed trailers pictured in this thread, about how much would one expect to pay? I haven’t started seriously looking yet, but I am hoping to get something in the $12-15k range, even if it is 2-3 years old. I definitely don’t want to spend the $20-30k+ I know some of them cost.
@jonx96 has found some new ones under 15k
 


Jimmy N.

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I've been looking around a bit for a basic 24-foot enclosed trailer, but a gooseneck.

Nothing fancy, and without a side door, the ones I'd consider are $30K plus. There's an outfit in Georgia (?) that has them for $20K and change, but...

Since the material, if equal, should cost about the same for any manufacturer, and somewhat skilled labor would want to be paid something, I am not interested in finding out where they cut corners on those cheap ones.

Found what seemed to be a nice used '17 in Arizona, used once for a move and then garaged, but without the side door. It was about $25K I think.
 


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So I see some nice aluminum ramps attached to trailer doors here. Any you could recommend?

While the 4" taller than stock trailer makes the door of the Cat clear the fender, the rear door has nowhere near the correct approach angle, and even the breakover angle is much too high. Need about 8" of extra height.

Recently bought Race Ramps, but that seems to have been a mistake. Not only do those not like sitting on gravel (which I knew), but when I asked them about putting a small piece of plywood on the step for the door, they said I'd be on my own if I did.

Tried to explain that spreading the load of the door's edge couldn't possibly be a bad thing. Then I asked if it was somehow better to put the door directly on the ramps, like in all their photos, to which they said that I would be on my own doing it that way, too. Needless to say, those ramps are still in their unopened box. View attachment 89601
Look at the folded up ramps on my trailer. I had to get them installed because the splitter was getting torn up going in and out.
 


DavidKFla

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#31
A new quality trailer today is going to run you $35K++ today.

You get what you pay for.
 


DavidKFla

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#32
I've been looking around a bit for a basic 24-foot enclosed trailer, but a gooseneck.

Nothing fancy, and without a side door, the ones I'd consider are $30K plus. There's an outfit in Georgia (?) that has them for $20K and change, but...

Since the material, if equal, should cost about the same for any manufacturer, and somewhat skilled labor would want to be paid something, I am not interested in finding out where they cut corners on those cheap ones.

Found what seemed to be a nice used '17 in Arizona, used once for a move and then garaged, but without the side door. It was about $25K I think.
A $20K Georgia trailer will be junk. There's a shitton of manufacturers up there turn out cheap, zero quality trailers that are built via "piece work".
 


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#33
My winter plans include hopefully picking up an enclosed trailer by spring. Of the enclosed trailers pictured in this thread, about how much would one expect to pay? I haven’t started seriously looking yet, but I am hoping to get something in the $12-15k range, even if it is 2-3 years old. I definitely don’t want to spend the $20-30k+ I know some of them cost.
GOOD LUCK finding an enclosed trailer in that price range ! Trailers hold their values really well. If you're looking for a quality aluminum trailer, This 2017 ATC Quest 305 trailer was $23,000. I would probably get the same price because the new 305 trailers are near $36,000 now. If you're looking for a trailer with a side door, not all the wheel wells come out the same way. On an ATC trailer the well comes out without tipping it in first. If you have to tip it in with the car in the trailer you won't be able to get it out
 


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Jimmy N.

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#34
Look at the folded up ramps on my trailer. I had to get them installed because the splitter was getting torn up going in and out.
Yeah, yours are what got me thinking about this again. Do you know what brand they are?

At this point a pair of 8x8x18 blocks of wood are looking appealing. Set the door down on them, then regular aluminum ramps (which I have) on the portion of wood that sticks out past the door.

Four more things to tie down somewhere, but at least the cost is minimal.
 


DavidKFla

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Yeah, yours are what got me thinking about this again. Do you know what brand they are?

At this point a pair of 8x8x18 blocks of wood are looking appealing. Set the door down on them, then regular aluminum ramps (which I have) on the portion of wood that sticks out past the door.

Four more things to tie down somewhere, but at least the cost is minimal.
I just dropped it off at storage. They're called Pit Pal or something like that. I'm going to try a search.
You want to do this right. The splitter on the Charger got ripped getting caught on the edge of the main trailer floor trim strip.
 


DavidKFla

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#36
Yeah, yours are what got me thinking about this again. Do you know what brand they are?

At this point a pair of 8x8x18 blocks of wood are looking appealing. Set the door down on them, then regular aluminum ramps (which I have) on the portion of wood that sticks out past the door.

Four more things to tie down somewhere, but at least the cost is minimal.
https://pitpal.com/ramps/
 


OP
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Thread Starter #37
Looking at open haukers with the air dam. Have a good lead on 2022 tilt for car hauling that checks all the boxes, winch, small slope, epoxy frame. Just waiting on vin and gvwr. Also @Jimmy N. I towed to VMP with a friends suretrac. It was fine, truck barely felt it. MPG was def poop lol.

I'm thinking the basic load out kit. Empty jugs (pump e85 will be had). And my personal belongings and Ill be fine.
 


DavidKFla

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Looking at open haukers with the air dam. Have a good lead on 2022 tilt for car hauling that checks all the boxes, winch, small slope, epoxy frame. Just waiting on vin and gvwr. Also @Jimmy N. I towed to VMP with a friends suretrac. It was fine, truck barely felt it. MPG was def poop lol.

I'm thinking the basic load out kit. Empty jugs (pump e85 will be had). And my personal belongings and Ill be fine.
My open trailer was a Suretrack with the diamond plate deck. Towed smooth behind the 1500. The ramp angle was a little steep so we had jack it up some so the splitter would clear.
Last I looked, it's now $8,900.
 


DavidKFla

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#39
Looking at open haukers with the air dam. Have a good lead on 2022 tilt for car hauling that checks all the boxes, winch, small slope, epoxy frame. Just waiting on vin and gvwr. Also @Jimmy N. I towed to VMP with a friends suretrac. It was fine, truck barely felt it. MPG was def poop lol.

I'm thinking the basic load out kit. Empty jugs (pump e85 will be had). And my personal belongings and Ill be fine.
@jgilj any ideas on an open trailer??
 


Jimmy N.

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#40
One thing I've learned (the hard way) is to not buy any kind of trailer with less than 5,200 lb. axles.

While it has quite a few miles on it, a light little tandem axle car hauler of mine is on its third set of 3,500 lb. axles.
Longevity because of larger bearings, and better brakes. Well worth the upgrade.
 




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