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How-To: Upgrade the Dual OEM HK Woofers.

Diboblo

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#1
Things you will need:

12 gauge wire.
Two shallow mount 10" subwoofers.
Dedicated monoblock amp.
4 gauge wire.
Mini Add-a-Circuit
100 amp fuse and holder.
Panel mount 12 gauge connector and adapter harness (future update).

In this how-to, I will cover my installation of two SKAR Audio 10" 500 watt 2 ohm DVC subwoofers, in place of the OEM HK woofers. We will wire the voice coils in series, then drop the overall load by wiring the speakers in parallel.

Note the difference between the two and see for yourself why you may wish to consider this mod.



Remove two OEM woofers, from the HK box, by extracting 6 Torx screws, each.

Unplug each woofer and set them aside.



Gather the OEM harness, inside the right hand side of the box.



In my case, I needed to open up the mounting hole about 1/8". Just used a rotary rasp, on my drill motor. Piece of cake.

Next, we need to wire each sub in series, for a 4 ohm load. This is accomplished by jumpering between the positive, on one voice coil, to the ground, on the opposite voice coil.



Do this to both subwoofers.

Next, attach a 24" 12 gauge wire from the empty positive and negative treminals of one subwoofer and install it in the left side of the box. Do not screw it down, just yet.






Install the free end of the wires, from the left sub, to the empty terminals on the right sub.

I chose the OEM harness red wire and white wire to jumper to, for your signal input. Red wire, positive. White wire, ground.

Install T-Taps on the red and white wires.

Run a jumper between the OEM harness and the right woofer terminals you just connected to.

You are shooting for this:



Now, we can button up the subwoofers. For this application, I used #8 stainless panhead screws... 8 each. This is because SKAR uses 8 mounting holes. HK uses 6.

Next, fabricate a 24" harness of 12 gauge wire, using two 2.5mm female spade terminals, on one end. The other end, strip and run to the output of the amp.

I ran a remote turn on wire to an Add-a-Circuit at fuse 18, in the rear power distribution block.

Power and ground, for the amp, run to the battery.

Signal source comes from the driver side 6x9. I tapped into the signal and ground with an RCA patch cord and ran it to the amp.

I mounted the amp and fuse to a piece of 3/4" plywood, that I painted black.



Hope this helps.

Bob
Riverside, California
 
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Diboblo

Diboblo

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Thread Starter #2
The next and final mod, in this how-to, involves installing an airtight bulkhead connector, with 12awg wire, to replace the OEM 18awg rats nest.

You'll need:

SAE bulkhead connector and joining plug end.
Silicone spray.
Trim removal tool.
Solder.*
Soldering iron.*
Four #6x3/4" stainless countersink screws.
Silicone RTV, or 3m VHT tape.

*Alternatively, you may elect to use 12 awg butt splices.

=====================================

First, you need to remove the right side subwoofer. I won't cover that. It's just a few screws.

Disconnect from the OEM harness, inside the box (see the first part of this tutorial).

Take your trim tool and remove the connector, from the box:





Spray the grommet with a little bit of silicone spray:



Use your trim tool and carefully pry the grommet, while pressing on it, with your thumb:



It will pop right into the box:



Remove the OEM grommet/wire assembly, by feeding the connector through the hole in the box:



Locate and install the SAE bulkhead connector, using the four screws:



Once mounted to the box, connect the bulkhead leads, to the speaker leads, in a method you prefer.

Re-install the subwoofer.

That's it.

Now, put that thing back in the car. Connect your amp side wires. Plug into the bulkhead connector and enjoy.



Bob
Riverside, California
 
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Diboblo

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Thread Starter #3
@BULL

Wiki?

Bob
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BULL

Oh NO! Not that guy!
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DaveB

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@Diboblo, Couldn't you get the signal from the original sub wiring harness? (I see scotchlocks on the original harness, so I'm assuming you tried...?)
 
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Diboblo

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Thread Starter #6
@Diboblo, Couldn't you get the signal from the original sub wiring harness? (I see scotchlocks on the original harness, so I'm assuming you tried...?)
At the time I got my HC, the stereo wasn't a priority, so it has the base Alpine, without sub.

However, I am a basshead, so...

Bob
Riverside, California
 

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Last edited:
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Diboblo

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Thread Starter #8
Very nice write up. Question, you have a Charger (as do I) so you didn't have the spare tire well sub setup from factory? I'm assuming you used one from a Challenger?

edit: I found this https://www.hellcatforum.org/threads/how-to-installing-a-challenger-hk-sub-box-in-a-charger.4550/
so answered my own question. Answer was yes.
LOL... that also my write up :)

There is an HK sub box on the "other" forum, but it is way overpriced.

Couldn't hurt to throw him an offer, if you're considering this mod...

Bob
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Thanks Bob, Great info!
 

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