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Garage Door Insulation

Hickster

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#1
Garage door insulation 18 X 7 for damn hot garage door. Lukin to cool gown the garage by insulating the door. Does it work?? Product and materials,, costing,, where to purchase the products?? I am by trade an insulator by trade but not pre formed insulating hot garage doors. Lots of products just wondering the best of trial and error. Amazon has some already cut to fit an 18 X 7 precut at $147. Thanks for replies.
 

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I had my garage insulated when I had the house built. It’s insulated just like the house including the walls and ceiling. The doors were done with some cheap styrofoam crap that I replaced. I had a split level AC unit installed. While it’s 108 outside right now with the sun shine on my door my garage is a cool 78 degrees. Doing just the door help but not much. Several of my neighbors have tried and failed.
 

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I had my garage insulated when I had the house built. It’s insulated just like the house including the walls and ceiling. The doors were done with some cheap styrofoam crap that I replaced. I had a split level AC unit installed. While it’s 108 outside right now with the sun shine on my door my garage is a cool 78 degrees. Doing just the door help but not much. Several of my neighbors have tried and failed.
Paladin is right. Builders don't insulate the garage walls.
 

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My garage doors and ceiling in Wildwood, FL are insulated but it does not do much to keep the garage cooler. Walls are cinder block and do not seem to be the cause of radiating any heat inside. I think it’s just from the attic? I’m going to put a solar powered exhaust fan in the attic roof to try to get some hot air out of the attic. That may help but I really don’t want to spend the money for a split level A/C system. I put an in the wall heat pump unit in my garage in Virginia that I bought from Grainger’s and it works great. Of course, the garage is also insulated.
 
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Thread Starter #5
General con sen cese is that insulating the door really does or does not help?? If not,, don't want to spend the $$. I lived in a town home ass o cee e asition. Can't punch holed in the walls. Garage with a spot cooler would need duct to exhaust. That garage door is hot. Like I mentioned before, I have been in the commercial and industrial HVAC and insulation business for 30 years. Normally I would slap anchor pins, glued, and fiberglass with foil backing, but costly. Cut, cut, cut. Expensive. Other materials would be cheaper and just as effective.
Now for you inventive people, Bob, my commercial favorites is insertions of dehumidified and colled off outside air. That is pressurizing the building or rooms with outside air humidity taken out in the same affect of a dehumidifier. Cool the air with a freon coil and reheat if need be. The positive air keeps air incertion from doors and winders. Great for older homees. The last town home we had built 5 years ago was a 5 star energy efficient home. The whole building was pressurizes 5 times for leaks and repaired. 3 pained windows, 2 pained sliders massive amounts of insulation solid out side doors, and balancing grills. Really done right. In one main bathroom up stairs. Houe is 4,200 SF, 4 bed rooms 3 1/2 bath with a very large build out up stairs. Figuring out how to insert outside air to pressurize the building with out knocking a whole in the wall to bring in outside air. Well, Bob, just so happens that one full bath up stairs has a dehumidifier built into the exhaust fan. Oversiszed which works off ot a sensor that turns on to exhaust when it hits a point you preset. It so happens to sit next to the AHU room. So to bring in outside air, Bob, reverse the fan to bring in the out side air, duct it into the return duct of the AHU with a UV light set up charcoal for smells, and dehumidify thru the AHU. Wa, la no more holes, fan already there, duct work there. 50 units in this gated community and could sell it to 49. Sorry long winded and other than installing a chiller,, this would be it.
 

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#6
No question. An insulated door will be better than a non-insulated door. I have seen small screened louver’s installed in the bottom of a door. Maybe you could insulate it and use a floor fan to exhaust the hot air with those kind of louvers in the door...
 
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Paladin06

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Before the split level went in we tried the exhaust fan up high and the inlet vents down low on the garage doors. It was better but in the end we went with the split level.

Good luck.

37D779E9-D50D-4165-B0CB-676CACA900AB.jpeg 991EDB0E-E0E6-4B5D-808E-0878D617F0A3.jpeg
 

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I would pick up a couple of sheets of the foam / aluminum sandwich stuff at Home Depot....try it. I did the bubble wrap on this roll up door at my kids tint shop It helps
 

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MikeD1

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I would pick up a couple of sheets of the foam / aluminum sandwich stuff at Home Depot....try it. I did the bubble wrap on this roll up door at my kids tint shop It helps
I've thought about that too. My doors face west, so the sun blasts them all afternoon & evening.
Figured that stuff is easy to cut & should slide right in under the hurricane bracing. Maybe a dab of construction adhesive here & there to hold it against the door.

$60M question would be - will it add enough weight that the door springs will need to be re-tensioned ??
 
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Thread Starter #11
Yea dudes, with the door facing west is a bitches facing west. Except my except wife. Witch she is sum bodies except wife now and again and again. But to think back every one of my 6 fiancees were married to some one when I started an a fair with em. A pattern?? All damn good looking. Went lukin for a couple of em today. Better luck on Sunday. They are all married, so better luck hunting, not the utter word. Insulation. I have this one town home that faces west. Has this damn half moon shaped winder and a rectum shaped winder under neath. Tried tinting, no good. Tried this bubble stuff 2 layers and a dehumidefier and it knocked it down 10 degrees and humidity to 40 %. It has to be the walls and right over the garage. I took the large ceiling fans out of the living room and master bed room, installed bigger ones and more deckaritive ones and installed those in the garage. Had smaller ones in there to begine with. It moves hot air but hot air. Spot cooler wood be the answer but can knot knock a hole in the wall. Or door. Pasco County you can. I guess the stuff from Amazon may work. Looked at the removes and looked good. $114 fer the hole door. 18 X 7 pre cut, then maybe 2 layers. Then maybe just move the car to an A/C garage,,, if I keep the car. When I bring the car in I half open the door, open the hood, and turn the fans on. Just moves hot air. When I bought the car I placed cold frozen packs on the Hemi and towles over that for the break in period. Didn't take long to melt those and then a back up pack. With the Cameros using 6 cold units gave it another 30 HP this couldn't hurt.
 

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#12
I've thought about that too. My doors face west, so the sun blasts them all afternoon & evening.
Figured that stuff is easy to cut & should slide right in under the hurricane bracing. Maybe a dab of construction adhesive here & there to hold it against the door.

$60M question would be - will it add enough weight that the door springs will need to be re-tensioned ??
I have the styrofoam insulation with silver foil on 1 side and white foil on the other side. I've installed it on a 2 car garage door and a 1 car garage door and the openers work great. I can't tell a difference. The sheets are super light as you could guess.
They are also super effective. I've had some 90 deg days where the garage inside temp is around 73-75. The ceiling and walls are very well insulated too. In the winter I need heat, but I can just about get by without AC in the garage in our summers.
 

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The bubble wrap stuff is really light
 

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Garage door insulation 18 X 7 for damn hot garage door. Lukin to cool gown the garage by insulating the door. Does it work?? Product and materials,, costing,, where to purchase the products?? I am by trade an insulator by trade but not pre formed insulating hot garage doors. Lots of products just wondering the best of trial and error. Amazon has some already cut to fit an 18 X 7 precut at $147. Thanks for replies.
Long time ago insulated two garage doors with the silver backed polystyrene panels cut to fit. Cost was negligible and there was some reduction in insolation heat transfer, but it was not dramatic. My problem was the doors faced west and were baked by the afternoon soon all spring and summer and the garages turned into mini-ovens. Maybe a different material would work better. I went with the poly because it was incredibly easy to install and did not significantly increase the weight of the doors. I could have easily fitted two panels (a double thickness) to each door, and I probably should have, just never got around to it.
 

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Read your insulation before you buy it. Many of the foamboard insulation panels specifically state that they cannot be left exposed. Some are combustible and some emit a toxic odor if burned. I inspect homes for a living and I see the pink foamboard cut to fit the garage door trays. I write it up every time.
 

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I insulate my garage doors with the bodies of my enemies. Properly preserved they have a great R value.

thomas the hbomb.gif
 

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I, occasionally, do what I can

spanish inquisition.gif
 

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I had my garage insulated when I had the house built. It’s insulated just like the house including the walls and ceiling. The doors were done with some cheap styrofoam crap that I replaced. I had a split level AC unit installed. While it’s 108 outside right now with the sun shine on my door my garage is a cool 78 degrees. Doing just the door help but not much. Several of my neighbors have tried and failed.
I don't care how beautiful...or even if the streets are paved with gold...I'm not livin in triple digit heat...not even for one day...:eek:
 

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