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What about when the next hurricane comes by? Then you may want those straps to be pristine, so you can open all those doors and run two straps from one side to the other to something solid at ground level.

Ask the (legit) manufacturers of straps how they feel about it.

DavidKFla, just for clarity, my "like" for your post above does not include the crossed straps.

Full of fare payers, how could they not be low?

How many years overdue are you on your vision exam? Ah, never mind. Even Stevie Wonder could tell which one looks best.

I do. Not that I particularly care for models (they can be high maintenance and bit stuck up) but I definitely have limits for the years. Too old and I have no interest in them, and too young could get me in trouble.

So by including a couple of multi-doors, the prices (understandably) are lower.

It's not as bad as you may think. WLL (working load limit) on typical 2-inch straps is 3,000, but the breaking point is much higher. Well, unless you buy your straps at Harbor Freight, Home Depot, or some similar place. Then they could be and act quite different.

I would put bolt-on D-rings on the frame rail instead, with a decent size backing plate. Ideally close to a crossmember.

In your case, if the car is positioned correctly for tongue weight, I'd run the lasso strap to a stake pocket D-ring in the stake pocket just behind the center of the tire. I have never run four lasso straps straight down vertically, wanting more fore and aft efficiency. And why the stake...

Agree. Except that I'd use the far more substantial stake pockets instead of the rub rail.