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Those center locks wheels alone are responsible for a fair amount of money. Hell, if memory serves me, a shiny gas cap is over $300...and it's hidden behind a door anyway. It's easy to spend an extra $40-50K on options, although there are performance enhancing ones, too.

Well, it shouldn't take more than two minutes to take a peek at the pad thickness through the wheel. Although, I have never found that worn pads affected brake performance. Not until there's metal to metal contact anyway.

That's a lot better than the 15% rate on Ecodiesels. A friend of mine delivers trailers, up to 30,000 lbs. worth at a time (stacked), for a manufacturer. He drives enough to buy a new Ram every four or five years. That's normally at just shy of 500,000 miles. He has yet to have to replace any...

By any chance, did the dealer prep include spraying goop on the tires?

So Gator Dude (aka DavidKFla), I've had two pickups with crummy brakes. With the first one, a GM dually, I had to hit the brakes hard on the way home (SoCal traffic) before bedding those brakes in. Next was a Ram that a shop (don't ask) put the rotors back on with greasy gloves, then never...

I certainly didn't need one, but after checking out the size of the drivetrain parts after bringing my girlfriend's TRX home, it impressed me enough to order one for myself. My official excuse was that it could come in handy in an unexpected snow storm, or for getting around a road closure. And...

You mean that they should build a TRX? (Speaking of marginal brakes)

You should try a Cummins. They do quite well for a straight Six, I think. Even the detuned version in my cab and chassis does okay. But then, I have yet to exceed 39,000 lbs. total weight.

Then there's something wrong. I'd try new pads after cleaning off the rotors really well. By the way, how much do you want for that $12K trailer of yours?

They should be good. Maybe not bedded in correctly? Either way, they're significantly larger than on a 1500.

Oh, they will, once it's gone through the very unrealistic J2807 test. For whatever reason, that test concentrates largely on acceleration and being able to go fast up hills. I much prefer being able to stop quickly, and have enough braking power to be able to go down hills safely. To me, a...

To me, the engine output is low on the list for a tow vehicle. They could put a Hellephant in a 1500, and it's still only a 1500.

Okay, so they still offer the better looking and (slightly) less complicated and tech laden version...is that wrong?

They are things I'd pay not to have. Heck, I was willing to pay the same for a Base Durango as for the Plus I'm getting, but apparently the order couldn't be changed. So now I'm getting all sorts of fancy unwanted tech, and get to pay some $6K extra.

I can't even imagine the development costs for an inline V6. Would the crankshaft make a 180 and then go back to the other three cylinders?

How would you say that the two compare, good, bad and indifferent?

But running on alligator meat instead of spinach?

Agree. The Cummins in my 3500 doesn't sound bad, and the Cat in the Pete sounded really good.

Was that in Australia, or why did it lift the right side?

Even though a prototype has supposedly been spotted with the 6? Not yet verified, but it may be soon. Of course, they could sell both versions. One for people who just can't stand the power, exhaust sound, and blower whine.