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Straps over the tires work really well, especially if there are tread grooves for the rubber pieces on the straps to grab onto. If not, like with slicks, wheel nets are probably a better choice. Either kind needs one anchor point right fore and aft of the tire. The center ones are "stationary"...

It would want to turn to the side a bit, unless the winch is offset the same as the tow hook. But it's easy enough to move the pulling point of the winch with two snatch blocks. Or just one, if letting the fairlead take care of the first 90 degree turn.

Or, buy an inexpensive snatch block and you'll have twice the pulling power, and at a slower and more controllable speed.

Hey, it's one of China's finest winches (surely it just happens to be very affordable despite its superior quality). But what scares me even more is the Chinese synthetic winch rope. This after recently have read up on those, before buying one for my Warn winch, for a trailer. And that winch...

In a static situation you're perfectly fine. Sudden acceleration or braking changes things. Again, while there's now a load on the straps, it's nothing like the forces of getting rear ended or running into something. Not sure what the deal is with with an enclosed trailer, but with an open...

Sounds like you have a lot of faith in the brake mechanism of that winch. I wouldn't even trust a Warn 8274 for that, and those have a brake that really can't let go easily.

Have you considered going on a diet?

Look into lasso straps. Inexpensive and effective. As seen on the rear in this photo.

Using direct hooks is especially nice when securing cars. Good choice. For the most part I use that kind of setup, largely because on the flatbeds all I have for anchor points is the stake pockets. In the toy hauler I have E-track and can use wheel nets or tire straps. The latter are a little...

There are some things you just don't buy from Tractor Supply, or Harbor Freight.

ChargerChallenger has three on order. He may be convinced to part with one. If you promise to convert it to an EV.

No! Not Tractor Supply, please! Macs has great stuff, including kits with nice axle straps and fuzzy sleeves, but you can get similar setups piecemeal from US Cargo Control and other places. Either way I'd strongly recommend flat hooks with clips, not the J-hook stuff that can come undone.

Right here at home, looking out the bedroom window.

What winter? There's a little snow in the hills finally, but not exactly winter. Of course, it's enough to keep the Floridians away.

Apparently about 500 feet too many.

I'm already there, and it hasn't even really got cold yet. I really, really hope that I can get the boiler working again before the heated floor freezes and cracks the concrete. While searching for new control board, I came across the fact that this boiler is only made to work at 0-7,000 feet...

There are only two ways for them to catch fire that I know of, well recalled reasons anyway. One's the transmission, the other the grid heater solenoid. The latter is easy enough to circumvent.

I think a '21 has the old (better) CP3 pump, but don't take my word for it.

I really can't recommend one over another, not really having used much of any of them. The Howes I use for anti-gel has a summer version, too, and Stanadyne is Cummins approved as I recall. Optilube placed very well in the tests I've seen, but those are old. Straying from the established...

Yeah, although I was thinking more along the lines of trucking, ships, trains, and such. The stuff that keeps the world moving. And I do feel sorry for those who use heating oil, diesel, etc. for heating. That's not an indirect hit.