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It is quite fitting to call an EV "Charger", isn't it? Even though it needs one more so than is one.

I think that what 2ndAmend is looking at are those unplanned and abrupt stops. If just towing at a stead pace, tie downs wouldn't even be needed. Well, for me they still would because of how I go trough curves. I tend to "over-tie" the rear because it'd be bad enough to have the front of the...

That is the ideal tie-down method, I think. Have that setup in the toy hauler, but not on the flatbeds.

Nothing. We have clean air here, and no hurricanes or alligators. But I do know that stuff needs to be tied down when feces hits the fan. Either way, crossing the straps is not a good idea. I used to do it at the back of my Jeep before I knew better.

What about when the next hurricane comes by? Then you may want those straps to be pristine, so you can open all those doors and run two straps from one side to the other to something solid at ground level.

Ask the (legit) manufacturers of straps how they feel about it.

DavidKFla, just for clarity, my "like" for your post above does not include the crossed straps.

Full of fare payers, how could they not be low?

How many years overdue are you on your vision exam? Ah, never mind. Even Stevie Wonder could tell which one looks best.

I do. Not that I particularly care for models (they can be high maintenance and bit stuck up) but I definitely have limits for the years. Too old and I have no interest in them, and too young could get me in trouble.

So by including a couple of multi-doors, the prices (understandably) are lower.

It's not as bad as you may think. WLL (working load limit) on typical 2-inch straps is 3,000, but the breaking point is much higher. Well, unless you buy your straps at Harbor Freight, Home Depot, or some similar place. Then they could be and act quite different.

I would put bolt-on D-rings on the frame rail instead, with a decent size backing plate. Ideally close to a crossmember.

In your case, if the car is positioned correctly for tongue weight, I'd run the lasso strap to a stake pocket D-ring in the stake pocket just behind the center of the tire. I have never run four lasso straps straight down vertically, wanting more fore and aft efficiency. And why the stake...

Agree. Except that I'd use the far more substantial stake pockets instead of the rub rail.

I completely agree with that the rear tie-downs can be the most important, but four... The two that would be crossed is a no-no in the first place, and if at about 45 degrees their strength/efficiency is cut in half even if the abrasion between them hasn't lowered their WLL. And that's not even...

No. Aside from that straps don't like being rubbed against each other, you're giving up a fair amount of strength by having the straps at that much of an angle. To me the most important part is to keep the trailered vehicle from moving forward. That's because nobody always have control over how...

Look at what Best Aluminum Ramps has to offer. Might be quite appealing compared to making a set. I've had a set made to specs for a trailer and for a very reasonable price. And they're knife edged which is a great feature with the Challenger's splitter.

True...if the parts behind the hp are up to it. If I want more power I'll drive the 'Cat instead. Although, it would've been stuck long before reaching the eight or so inches of snow. And if we actually get some snow this winter, the TRX is a much better choice than either Challenger.

I know. But that one is just fine as is. Besides, I'm surprised that the tiny drivetrain parts hold up to 300 hp.