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I think that's what Unholy did, since he needs constant access.

You're very welcome to come over and do it. If you think you can survive the lower temps and humidity.

Strange indeed, but it could've been a lot worse. Yes, it would've been easier had my 3500 not been blocked in by my new and not operational tow vehicle, and had the trailer with the winch not had about five yards of gravel in front of it. Had no choice but to take her 3500, which has nothing...

I can't take credit for doing it. Most of the bag was balled up at the throttle blade, and with some luck I got at least 95% of it out. After clearing the codes the dash is free of warning lights and it seems to run like it should. Of course I only drove it off the trailer and to its parking...

Have you considered just leaving the hood open? It works well on our Challengers, and should help the gas struts live a little longer. As an added bonus, it's hard to forget that the hood's open.

Yeah, the bag must have first spread itself over most of the filter area, then found/made a temporary gap to make it past the filter. She did say she'd just passed a car, which means she floored it. Or at least close to it.

No, that's on her Crew Cat. They have a maybe 3.5" tube coming from the far left part of the grille, and another path from below. Forgot to look at where that one originates. Must be a rare thing to have happen no matter what.

If you get a P2111 and a P2811, something like this could be the reason. It put the engine in beyond limp mode, practically eliminated the brakes, and everything on the dash that could supposedly lit up. Was lucky that it ran well enough to barely make it up on the trailer, and that she was a...

Ordered a new air filter. Not because the original was dirty, but it was nowhere near flat enough anymore.

Have you considered buying or renting a chainsaw? Although I'd probably rent a bulldozer instead. Chainsaws are noisy and dangerous.

For me the only remotely logical 6-month change would be to drain the fresh oil out of the engines in the spring, after hibernation, then put it in the other engine. No that doesn't make any sense, and that's why I don't do it. Or dump the fresh oil in the spring only because it has spent some...

Now that's one test even I could do myself, and understand. Were both oils the same grade?

Yeah, somebody that mixes up his own oil formulae (and for racing) must know a thing or three about what makes certain oils and additives tick. I just wish I could comprehend more of all the good info he presents.

Guess I've been lucky, and so far able to back out after getting fuel. But that's with shorter (44' and less) trailers. When pulling doubles it's a different story...those I struggle with even backing up in a straight line.

For something like oils I would trust The Motor Oil Geek's testing infinitely more than anybody else.

I bought 18.5 gallons of oil this week. And not because all of a sudden I'll start changing it every six months, like the manual for many of them say I must, but some vehicles hold more than others. .

Exactly why I do it in the fall. Fresh oil in the pan doesn't go bad or do anything bad during winter.

Guess I should point out that you can get them to test for it...for an extra fee. But why, when other labs do it as a normal part of the process for the same cost.

Did you notice that I wrote "...sent samples to a good lab..."? Didn't want to bring it up, but especially those who short trip their cars probably shouldn't use Blackstone. Instead, use one that actually tests for fuel dilution. Although, now that you live in Texas the oil probably never...

Warranty? Okay, I didn't void it by doing the first change at about 500 miles, but after that... Normally I do the change in the late fall, then it's ready to go in the spring. Except for the year I forgot and both ended up with exactly two years on the oil. Sent samples to a good lab, then had...