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KWs or Mopar Stage 1?

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19 Hellcat Redeye, 09 Z06 Corvette
#1
I want to lower the Redeye but don’t need it to be slammed.

previously had Eibachs on a 2012 RT Challenger and loved them but am worried they would drop the Redeye too much.

I am leaning towards the KWs but do they ride better than the Mopars?

thanks in advance 41D2BFCF-70C4-431E-89B8-51834724B664.jpeg FE97E5F5-977A-4B98-A436-653746A7ECD5.jpeg
 


Hunter

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#2
Eibachs look great (had them on my 16 HC).
But Eibachs create other issues; Boot tear, to low for some garages (ask how I know ;) )
Have heard good things about KW, but have no experience with them.
I have Mopar Lowering Springs on mine (but to me, car still sits to high).
 


DGatzby

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#3
Courtesy of @TrackDay. Good info here for you to make your decision.
IMG_1227.jpg
 


Blkout

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#4
The problem with these cars is that if you lower them too far, you run the risk of tearing axle boots which has happened to quite a few of us. Some get lucky and it doesn't happen or maybe it does and they just don't know it. The Mopar springs will give you a safe drop without fear of tearing axle boots but some people still want them even lower. I had a set of Mopar springs on my car but I cut a half coil off the rears which made the car sit great but I did tear my passenger side axle boot twice. I removed the Mopar springs and installed the stock springs, cut a 1/8 coil from the front, and 1/4 coil from the rear, no more torn boots. It does sit higher than it did with the Mopar springs, but lower than stock.

The KW springs are nice that they're adjustable but the rears are a major pain in the butt to adjust so if you don't get it just right the first time you install them, you're going to hate having to adjust them. The fronts are easy to adjust though. The other downside to the KW's is that rear spring rates seem to be a bit soft in my opinion as evident by the data provided above.
 


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DGatzby

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#5
@Blkout a lucky man has a used set of KW's in the shed, and can just install the fronts, AND maintain the OEM height. :p Glad I took them off the Hellcat.

I can tell everyone those rear KW's are softer. That may be great for drag racing and come to think of it, if anyone may be interested, I won't put them on my car. I am going to use the fronts.

For example here is a combo that won't work:
1. KW rears
2. The AAD type rear control arms (nothing wrong here, but is key to the bad combo)
3. The DSS type axles with fully removable CV joints so that there are boot heads on the axle/flange side (opposite the diff), on the CV. Again nothing wrong here, these may be talked about along with the new Mopar Demon/RE axles for strength etc.

Upon big compression could happen over road dips, could happen at 140 mph at a slight compression in your local road course, when it is squatting anyway. The boot heads will smack the control arms, create a death sounding high speed grind that will freeze your senses. Upon inspection, the boot heads have grinded the bottom edge off the top control arm!

IMG_4985.JPG
And notice the grease because of my LAST boot tear. That CV right there had severe modifications and a unique boot. Still tore it at Donnybrook! FYI TD has found the combo of Mopar springs and Demon/RE axles do not tear on the same course.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #6
Eibachs look great (had them on my 16 HC).
But Eibachs create other issues; Boot tear, to low for some garages (ask how I know ;) )
Have heard good things about KW, but have no experience with them.
I have Mopar Lowering Springs on mine (but to me, car still sits to high).
Thanks!
 


OP
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Thread Starter #7

TMAC

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#8
KWs here. With the AAD rear inner/outer's , trailing arms and a CCI shaft.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #9
KWs here. With the AAD rear inner/outer's , trailing arms and a CCI shaft.
what are AAD rear parts?
 


TMAC

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#10
what are AAD rear parts?
https://aadperformance.com/collections/dodge-challenger

I am using the adjustable spherical bearing front upper arms, the inner/outer adjustable rear arms and spherical bearing trailing arms. If you lower the car with non adjustable factory pieces, you cannot align it properly.

I originally had the Speedlogix rear trailing arms, but they got chewed up because on lowered cars they are to wide at the pivot in the frame and they will rub. The AAD has plenty of room to clear the frame when lowered. Just an FYI.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #11
Thanks
 


OP
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Thread Starter #12
https://aadperformance.com/collections/dodge-challenger

I am using the adjustable spherical bearing front upper arms, the inner/outer adjustable rear arms and spherical bearing trailing arms. If you lower the car with non adjustable factory pieces, you cannot align it properly.

I originally had the Speedlogix rear trailing arms, but they got chewed up because on lowered cars they are to wide at the pivot in the frame and they will rub. The AAD has plenty of room to clear the frame when lowered. Just an FYI.
Great site. This is becomingng a complex endeavor. On my. Z06 you just raise the car and turn the bolt on the factory. setup to lower the car.

I'm curious to see what comes out on the possible ACR setup.

Thanks for the info!
 


TrackDay

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#13
I'm curious to see what comes out on the possible ACR setup.
If it's anything like the much more widely produced WB cars you won't be able to buy the parts unless you have proof you already own an ACR.
:cry:
 


Taxinator

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#14
I would recommend the Hotchkis Kit (19122). Here are the Hochkis vs stock SRT:
IMG_20190505_173723~2.jpg IMG_20190629_150822.jpg

Hochkis advertises https://www.hotchkis.net/product/20...-coil-springs-from-hotchkis-sport-suspension/ the drop as 0.75" front and 1.00" rear for the Challenger. However, these springs only dropped my Charger 0.50" front and 0.75" rear. Still, I love the drop since I was a little concerned about going too low.

Ride quality and performance are perfect, stiffer than stock but no where near harsh...unless set to track mode. Track mode was harsh before and more so with the new springs.

Good luck!
 




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