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Can anyone with an M6 and Barton shifter recommend an aftermarket

Old Mopar Guy

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driveshaft that doesn’t cause nvh issues and fits without modifying the Barton? Looking to treat myself to a new ds for Christmas with a budget of 1200-1500. 3.5 to 4.0 inch tube I guess. Aluminum or CF is fine, but I understand the CF will raise the critical speed thereby reducing the vibration potential (if I understand the principle correctly) Two piece Mark Williams is clearly not in play! Thanks all.
PS- I have read through a bunch of posts here and the old place as well.
 

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16GoManGoHC2

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Save for another year and buy a 2 piece Mark Williams design. Its the only one that’s truly not going to vibrate some, especially with a M6 that spins the DS much faster then an automatic does. I’ve had 3 different shafts on my M6 Challenger, and had them all up in the 190’s. Every one including the Wiles one I’m running presently has a resonance point, also known as a critical speed, at which they vibrate, it’s why they made them 2 piece to begin with. The Wiles was the best of the 3 I tried, DSS the worst, clocked them all around at least 8 times each, front alone, back alone, front and back. Was a pain staking process, someday I will buy a 2 piece one myself.
 
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Thanks 16. I don’t track my car but being it’s a 15, and I plan on adding modest power down the road, I’d like to be certain the ds won’t let go and trash the bottom of the car. I’m already on 11in rear wheels with 315 Nitto NT05R’s with the BMR Cradle Lock Out Bushings and Spohn Rear Tension Arms so the car does plant most of its power. Perhaps a few AAD pieces later? I remember reading a thread saying CCI was developing a 2 piece unit but have heard nothing since. Wiles seems to be a popular go-to, and I’ve read enough about DSS to stay away. Do the cf shafts raise that mph, or rpm I guess, resonance point? Thanks.
 
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Thanks 16. I don’t track my car but being it’s a 15, and I plan on adding modest power down the road, I’d like to be certain the ds won’t let go and trash the bottom of the car. I’m already on 11in rear wheels with 315 Nitto NT05R’s with the BMR Cradle Lock Out Bushings and Spohn Rear Tension Arms so the car does plant most of its power. Perhaps a few AAD pieces later? I remember reading a thread saying CCI was developing a 2 piece unit but have heard nothing since. Wiles seems to be a popular go-to, and I’ve read enough about DSS to stay away. Do the cf shafts raise that mph, or rpm I guess, resonance point? Thanks.
Using CF does typically raise the critical speed up in the rpm range but CF isn’t the best choice for long term street use due to rock chips and such weakening the tube.
 
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Thread Starter #7
Surprised about that seeing lots of it is tucked up and away protected by the exhaust. Ive also read about the binding issues being attributed to exhaust heat as well.
 

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I've also heard that CF should only be used at the track because of the impact damage and the resulting potential explosion.

:unsure:
 
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Thread Starter #9
I think that a cf drive shaft splintering to pieces would be an advantage on the street rather than have a 4 foot piece of aluminum flailing around beneath the car.
 

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I think that a cf drive shaft splintering to pieces would be an advantage on the street rather than have a 4 foot piece of aluminum flailing around beneath the car.

True, but "neither" is the even better option.
 
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Thread Starter #11
Update, I decided to go with a Wiles after bending Ralphs ear on the phone for 20 minutes. 4 inch aluminum tube, foam filled with u-joints and Sonnax flanges. We will cross the interference issue with the Barton when the time comes.
 

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Update, I decided to go with a Wiles after bending Ralphs ear on the phone for 20 minutes. 4 inch aluminum tube, foam filled with u-joints and Sonnax flanges. We will cross the interference issue with the Barton when the time comes.

I may have spare pieces/parts I can send your way for testing etc if you need them.

I have a couple of partial spares kicking around here somewhere
 
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Thread Starter #13
I’ll pm ‘ya Bull. Thanks.
 
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Thread Starter #15
Lots of info there. Thanks Earl.
 
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Thread Starter #16
Just to wrap this thread up the drive shaft in. All good! I had to pull it out two or three times to fit it but we’re all good. Got it only up to about 85 but no vibrations. You could see on the weld exactly where it was hitting the shifter and it left a mark on the shifter as well. I just hit those areas (on the shifter, didn’t touch the ds) with a grinding wheel for a while. Took off enough material to clear it, and when I took the driveshaft out for the last time in order to put Loctite on the bolts I hit it one more time. Only problem I couldn’t properly torque them down as I couldn’t get a torque wrench in so I just tightened them up nice and firm. 👍. Not a tough job at all, just a little tedious but if you guys don’t have an issue with interference between the Barton and the d/s, it’s a bunt. R&R the exhaust is cumbersome with one person but dooable. Two people would be a big help. Thanks to @Speedy! as I usually check his yt page before doing a mod that I don’t feel like bumbling my way through. 🍻
 

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