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I completely agree with that the rear tie-downs can be the most important, but four... The two that would be crossed is a no-no in the first place, and if at about 45 degrees their strength/efficiency is cut in half even if the abrasion between them hasn't lowered their WLL. And that's not even...

No. Aside from that straps don't like being rubbed against each other, you're giving up a fair amount of strength by having the straps at that much of an angle. To me the most important part is to keep the trailered vehicle from moving forward. That's because nobody always have control over how...

Look at what Best Aluminum Ramps has to offer. Might be quite appealing compared to making a set. I've had a set made to specs for a trailer and for a very reasonable price. And they're knife edged which is a great feature with the Challenger's splitter.

True...if the parts behind the hp are up to it. If I want more power I'll drive the 'Cat instead. Although, it would've been stuck long before reaching the eight or so inches of snow. And if we actually get some snow this winter, the TRX is a much better choice than either Challenger.

I know. But that one is just fine as is. Besides, I'm surprised that the tiny drivetrain parts hold up to 300 hp.

No need for a blade. The splitter does a decent job.

I'm about to use double sided tape, not wanting to drill or replace plastic rivets with screws.

A record low?

Yeah, these wheels weren't the truest ones I've ever seen. But then, I didn't expect perfection since they came from Florida. At least they had ground off most of the alligator tooth marks.

It definitely can't hurt anything to have them vibration free. No reason not to balance any tire that sees speeds over 30 or so. Somewhat related, this week I got reminded of how important road force balancing can be. It was a set of refurbished wheels and more winter friendly tires for the GT...

I'ts up there by the blues channel these days.

I balance all my trailer tires. Unbalanced tires are not good for anything involved, and just because people can't feel it in the steering wheel doesn't make it a non-issue.

Umm, that might be true...only because there aren't any large mountain towns in Florida.

There's reason I got air suspension on the 25K gooseneck. It rides smoothly empty and with 16K on it. Plus dumping the air makes approach and break-over angles better when loading it. My little 18' also rides well on its 5,200 axles but it probably weighs twice what an aluminum bumper pull...

It does. Which is why ratchets, stake pocket D-rings, lasso straps, axle straps, ratchet straps, wheel nets, etc. are in their own cardboard boxes in the toolbox. I always bring more than I need (for a couple of reasons) and especially when picking up a vehicle I've never tied down before. My...

If I feel lazy I take the longer gooseneck, with the hydraulic tail. Quicker and easier than even aluminum ramps. And all the tie-down stuff goes in the trailer's tool box either way.

I try to put as little as possible on or in trailers, and have the tow vehicle be as heavy as possible. Those original tires on the little gooseneck were replaced recently, due to age. Think they were rated at 60-something, but were subjected to 80 more often than not. The new ones are rated...

Yeah, that's partially what made my think about a longer one. But if you look at the Challenger on the trailer you'll see that it could've been moved forward by over a foot. Of course, my unfair advantage is that by driving fast, the odds of getting rear ended are minimized. Anyway, at 16.5...

So what I hear about the dark web is true, huh? Good thing you managed to finish, too.

I've transported all kinds of vehicles on my 18-foot trailer, but recently decided to look into getting a 20-footer. Well, they don't seem to make this kind anymore, so I'll either add a foot or two to this one, or simply leave well enough alone.