Search results

Well, until recently my girlfriend towed with a gasser and it did quite well. Of course, it was a Ram 3500 crew cab longbed with the 6.4, so a bit more meaningful than any 1500. With 4.10 gears it did fine in the hills, and got decent mileage. Better than expected. She'd never tow with...

Can't imagine why.

Probably from about 40K to near 140K. How long is a piece of rope?

Did that 400 foot one sink into the swamp?

As noted above, a good WD hitch would solve the sagging, and has other advantages that different springs or air springs could never match, due to simple physics. Also, weight can certainly be an issue, but one notable drawback with an enclosed trailer is the parachute effect. It wouldn't matter...

It is quite fitting to call an EV "Charger", isn't it? Even though it needs one more so than is one.

I think that what 2ndAmend is looking at are those unplanned and abrupt stops. If just towing at a stead pace, tie downs wouldn't even be needed. Well, for me they still would because of how I go trough curves. I tend to "over-tie" the rear because it'd be bad enough to have the front of the...

That is the ideal tie-down method, I think. Have that setup in the toy hauler, but not on the flatbeds.

Nothing. We have clean air here, and no hurricanes or alligators. But I do know that stuff needs to be tied down when feces hits the fan. Either way, crossing the straps is not a good idea. I used to do it at the back of my Jeep before I knew better.

What about when the next hurricane comes by? Then you may want those straps to be pristine, so you can open all those doors and run two straps from one side to the other to something solid at ground level.

Ask the (legit) manufacturers of straps how they feel about it.

DavidKFla, just for clarity, my "like" for your post above does not include the crossed straps.

Full of fare payers, how could they not be low?

How many years overdue are you on your vision exam? Ah, never mind. Even Stevie Wonder could tell which one looks best.

I do. Not that I particularly care for models (they can be high maintenance and bit stuck up) but I definitely have limits for the years. Too old and I have no interest in them, and too young could get me in trouble.

So by including a couple of multi-doors, the prices (understandably) are lower.

It's not as bad as you may think. WLL (working load limit) on typical 2-inch straps is 3,000, but the breaking point is much higher. Well, unless you buy your straps at Harbor Freight, Home Depot, or some similar place. Then they could be and act quite different.

I would put bolt-on D-rings on the frame rail instead, with a decent size backing plate. Ideally close to a crossmember.

In your case, if the car is positioned correctly for tongue weight, I'd run the lasso strap to a stake pocket D-ring in the stake pocket just behind the center of the tire. I have never run four lasso straps straight down vertically, wanting more fore and aft efficiency. And why the stake...

Agree. Except that I'd use the far more substantial stake pockets instead of the rub rail.